Botswana 2007
‘I think this year we go for holiday to Africa’ Meja said.., I need
nature, only animals and country side.
First I said nothing, then after the news had settled down I was up
to her idea and my only words were ‘OK’. That was all what was
necessary to make the decision that this years holiday we will spend
somewhere in Africa.
First we looked on our world map which is covering nearly the whole
wall in our sleeping room. We came up with suggestions and ideas
leading to some sort of discussions about the best route would be.
Actually it was a quite short discussion as we like to plan something
and then whilst on doing it make the final plans and decisions. Over
the many years of travelling we found out for us the best is having
a rough idea and decide the rest on the way. To do something
without expectations and take it as it comes, then make the best out
of it. We both don’t like to plan every detail in advance, we like
to plan spontaneous and stay flexible, this makes travelling for us
more challenging.
So we stood in front of our map and decided to go for South Africa,
Namibia and Botswana. We roughly checked our route in which order we
will go and to which places. The exact route we will develop while
we are on the road. The only question was, if we can make it in the
time of three month we have planned for the trip.
The time in our business is, we are running a dive school in Phuket,
Thailand, when there is Low Season and there is less work for us to
do and the only time we can take a few month off.
The next step was to buy some books to get some information about
what to see and what to do. This reading is the same fascinating as
the trip itself, gives us ideas of what we will experience soon.
Then we had to inform our staff and train them to lead our school
for the time we are not available.
The last thing was to get the tickets and wait for the day. It was
still 2 month to come. A long time but with the trip in prospect
they went by fast. And then the day came and with it our airplane
that will take us to Johannesbourgh in South Africa.
Part 2: Botswana
Pondrift Border. We passed the border between SA and Botswana in the
morning of 18th July 2007.
It was a very small border with only 1 building to get your visa and
road permit. We had a special paper from the Police in SA that
showed that we could leave SA with this car for the neighbouring
countries.
We paid 250 Pula and after half an hour we could go on.
Right after the border we had to cross a dry riverbed. I was
wondering what was going on in the rainy season when this river, the
mighty Limpopo River was filled with water and made it impossible
for any vehicle to cross. But right now we were lucky.
Then for hours we drove on sandy highways leaving clouds of dust
behind. Our target for this day was a campground in the Tuli Region.
Could we follow road signs in SA we soon figured out that was not
possible in Botswana. Not possible because there where non at all.
This we realized by the first crossing when we had to decide where
to go because two roads went off in a V shape, both heading in the
direction we intended to go. So we choose the right one. For the
next ours our primary question was ‘are we on the right way?’ as
there was no hint for it. The road became smaller and rougher.
Finally, after hours driving with no prove to go the right way, we
hitted a sign showing ‘Tuli Block’.
Wow, we exhaled, we choosed the right way. Now as we left the road
to follow the new road, even smaller and rougher, if you think this
was rough then you soon will realize there is always a hightening,
after one hour again the question ‘are we still on the right way’?
Again an hour later we arrived at the camp only to find out it was
not the camp we wanted to go. A white person, the owner of the camp
told us they have no campsites, we have to go on to the Limpopo
River Lodge, and he explained us how to go. In our guide book was
written the whole Tuli Area, a 20 km wide swath extending over 300
km on the northern banks of the River, is a collection of private
Game Reserves with lots of Game like leopard elephants, hippos,
wildbeest and impalas. Everything was a little bit confusing for us
thus nobody exactly could tell us where these Game Farms were. So we
went on on the road that was told us.
We checked a few roads leaving this one only to find out that they
all ended in small black farms. And these farmers could not speak
Africaans or English at all. Not that we speak Africaans but as
Germans we could have something like a slight conversation as
Africaans is a bit similar to Hollands. So they couldn’t understand
what we asked and we couldn’t understand what they answered. So we
went back to our road.
With the fourth road we were lucky as it led us to a campsite. It
was nearly two c’lock now and I was starving of hunger. But as we
came closer we realized there was nobody there. An old African came
over and told us that the owner of this camp, a very nice camp
by the way, was in Gaborone to apply for a license for his
bungalows. Aha, I thought, here you first built your Resort
and after you ask for a license.
Very interesting. Very bad. For us as we could not stay there
because of the missing license. Strange world. But we could at least
stay to cook and eat for lunch. Like usual when we on the road we
eat something very special, Beans and dried Beef or Wurst. So, after
we finished lunch we went back on our seats in the car and went on
again.
Back on the road.
Finally, it was getting dark already, the sign ‘
Limpopo River Lodge’ came in our view. Finally we arrived on the
camp we were looking
ดนพ
the whole day.
We found a nice place were we set up our camp next to the River Bed
of the Limpopo and next to animal troppings. From elephants as we
figuered out later. Nice. Only two meters from our car.
Did we park our car on an elephant highway? The next question on
this day we could not answer for shure.
The next day was an easy day. Only walking around a little bit,
eating and doing some washing. We had a hot shower. Only when we fed
the oven. This was funny. Actually it was a 200 liter drum hanging
free over a fireplace. So, the drum filled with water and the
fireplace with wood we could bring the water to the boil and use it
in the nearby shower. Easy and effective. So we did our laundry.
Meja did our laundry, I was soaring around and exploring the
surrounding. Late afternoon Meja was joining me and together we went
for an evening walk climbing some hills and watching the sunset.
So far Botswana was great.
The next morning we left for Francistown, the second biggest city in
Botswana. It was a little busy town we only used as a stop over on
our way to Nata where we wanted to visit the famous Magkadikadi
Pans.
The Sowa, Nxai and Ntwetwe Pans collectively comprise the 12.000
sq-km Magkadikadi Pans. During the sizzling heat of the late winter,
whats in August, the pans take on a disorientating austerity where
heat mirages destroy the as imaginary lakes shimmer and disappear.
Ancient lake shore terraces give proof of an ancient super lake of
over 60.000 sq-km that started evaporating some 10.000 years ago due
to climate changes, leaving only salt behind, the salt pans.
It is not that easy to navigate the pans as there are normally no
tracks, no signs, no hints where to go.
Additional the heat and the white, the super white and reflexing salt
and no shade at all plus the effect of mirages that let water appear
where no water is, makes it even more difficult. And at least the
knowing
that there can always be tricky mud holes hidden under the white
surface causing your vehicle to get bogged easily. This still
happens and with some bad luck and no help this is your end.
Yes, there we wanted to go, cross them and reach the little Island
of Kubu.
After leaving Francistown and an other 900 km of driving through the
eastern plains of Botswana we finally reached Nata, the stop over
either to Kasane in the north or Maun in the west. It only consists
of a few buildings, enough to refill gasoline and food.
We stayed a few days in a nearby campground, build and run by local
communities, on the edge of the Nata Pans. It was a very nice
and quiet place giving us the opportunity to explore the pans. On
one of these exploration trips we came to a waterplace which was
inhabited by thousands and thousands of flamingos, the white and
pink ones. It was a stunning view to see birds as far as you could
see, appearing ghostly in the haze of the heat on the very horizon.
But we wanted to go on, on to Kubu Island. So we passed Nata again
and were searching for a road drop off. After about 30 km it was
told us we should look out for a track leaving the road for the
south. Again no signs, nothing. Finally we agreed by one of tracks
leaving the road that this one will be it, the track we will follow
on this day. After a while there was a relief from us as we saw a
sign in the middle of nowhere pointing out to Kubu Island. So we
drove on and on following this rough dirt road through the vast
bushland. The whole day we drove. The road became worse, now covered
with little stones, real stones, not pebbles. The car jumped and
skidded around, crossing dried waterbeds, climbing hills and
crossing partly the outer salt pans of Sowa Pan. Sometimes we passed
by little rural villages, the inhabitants out for work in I don’t
know were, there was nothing, no water, no fields, nothing. So we
couldn’t figure out what actually these people are working. Only few
old women and little kids and cattle, donkeys and goats were left in
the villages, all lazy sitting in the shade of trees or the roofs of
the huts. As soon as they saw us the kids jumped on their feed and
run towards us but by the time they arrived we were already gone far
leaving only the trails of our tyres behind.
Our car was running, and the time was running too. Nearly 6 o’clock
in the evening and no glue how far is still was to the island. If we
couldn’t make it the next half an hour we then latest had to look
for a campsite. To collect fire wood was not necessary, we always
collect it on the way. So as we started looking for a site that
would fit us the scenery changed abruptly. Suddenly the small trees
we passed for the last 2 hours disappeared and we were out again on
a salt pan and in the far distance we could see the mangnific
island, looming out in the evening sky and mysteriously glooming in
the light of the settling sun. The view was breathtaking. We have
done it right in time.
Quickly a nice place was found for our car. We set up our camp,
preparing fire before it was completely dark and then had dinner in
an environment, so curiously and fairytale like like nothing we had
seen before.
It was just great. And on the next morning it was still great. The
sun raising over the salt pans coloring the Island in purple red.
We got up and after breakfast we went for a walk over the Island.
What caught your eyes were the trees, huge trees, not in height but
in girth and with a strange looking. It was now that we realized it
was these trees that made the impression of a fairytale we had last
night. Mighty and old, very old. Some 2.000 years and more.The fruit
of these trees looked like mango but with a hard and hairy skin
outside and segmants of white, dried flesh inside. I called this
flesh ‘desert chalk’ as you actually could write with it on stones.
We walked around for hours never enough from the stunning views you
had from the island in all directions, to low bushland or sun
drenched salt pans. So the day went by. And the next.
But we had to leave the island even if we could have satyed longer
because we wanted to go on, to Kasane and the Victoria Falls, but we
planned to use an other road this time. Using our compass as a
direction aid we made for our route back to north. It was a very
hard section we had to master this day with tracks leading through
vast bushveld land closed completely with Buffalo Thorn Bushes with
its thick, thorny spines that can cause you easily punctured tyres.
We were lucky in this way but by the end of this day the most of the
colour of our car was gone, sand papered away by the spines.
A few days later we arrived in the tiny town of Kasane, the most
important town in northern Botswana as it was housing shops,
restaurants, a Bank or two and a Petrol station. The right place to
fill everything up. And also the right place to cross the Border to
Zimbabwe for a visit to the Vic Falls.
We had the idea to stay 2 days in Kasane on a campground and then
visit the Vic Falls on a day trip.
Our first experience in Kasane we had one evening on our way to a
nearby, nice bar when we suddenly in a dark corner of Kasane hit a
whole family of elephants crossing our way. We stood blank as these
huge animals appeared unexpected a few meters from our car,from
nowhere, and this in a busy town. It was just great, Meja said ‘
this is Africa, the real Africa’.
The next morning we went for our daytrip to the Vic Falls. After
crossing the small Border to Zimbabwe, it took us an hour or so for
the paper work and to get the visa and the road permit for our car,
we followed the road for 120 km till we reached the Border Town
between Zimbabwe and Zambia. It was a nice little village with one
road and aligned on both sides of it were the tourist shops selling
tourist stuff and a few nice restaurants.
We parked our car and walked down to the entrance gate of the Vic
Falls National Park. In the entrance hall was sited a small museum
with the history and a map of the Falls.
The falls, we red, consist of alltogether 12 single waterfalls, 4 on
the Zimbabwaen side and 8 on the Zambian side across the border
bridge. We read names like Eastern Kataract, Devils Falls, Victoria
Island.
The Vic Falls were once discovered by David Livingstone in 1855
during his four year journey up the Zambesi River. When he saw them
first he exclaimed, calling as beautiful as it, ‘Angels in their
flight must heve gazed’ and named them after the Queen of England
also there is a native name in the Kololo language that means ‘ the
smoke that thunders’.
No wonder the name. The 108 m high and 1.7 km wide Vic Falls with an
annual average flow of 1 million litres per second ! send
permanently immense clouds of spray into the air, causing the sun to
disappear, forcing us to use our rain coats.
Everything about the falls we heard was true. The views were breath
taking.
So we walked around for hours, peering down the canyon walls, eyeing
rainbows, watching a warthog grazing peaceful on the edge, striped
mogoose playing around, spray settling down on our rain coats and
evaporating in the bright sun light. It was an absolutely great day.
For Meja even more, later on, when we were back strolling along the
narrow shopping street with its nice little shops. We went in here
and there, bought a few postcards and a tea cup and then had lunch
in a typical restaurant eating Kudu Steaks. It was 5 oclock when we
finally left back for Kasane. We had to hurry a bit as the border
will close at 7 o’clock.
7.30 0’clock we were back on our campground in Kasane, tired but had
a great day.
go
back to top
Jordan 2010
For you my lovely family and my good
friends,
Many Greetings.
Today, I would like to share our journey in this way with you and
wish you good fun with this story. Of course we would have so much
more to tell…but then it would be a book and not a “short” story
anymore.
Take your time please and enjoy.
Yours Meja
“A Fun Trip through Jordan”
We are traveling through Jordan now since the first of August 2010.
The Airport in Amman appeared a bit small for an international
Airport when we arrived after 1 o’clock in the morning. The
formalities at the Immigration took a while so when we grabbed a
Taxi outside of it, we first drove to the downtown City of Amman.
Unfortunately we could not find a cheap Guesthouse, they were all
fully booked so we went on to a Shmeisani (= Upper town)
Accommodation but with the same result. I then could not help
anymore and fell asleep in the Taxi. Wolf went on to see and check
with the driver several more places until he found one which was big,
nice, with some kind of kitchen and open air shower for a fortune of
70 Euro. At about 5 AM in the morning my last thought was, if they
ever change the bed sheet and the first in the morning was that
there was not even one.
Well, this is how our 4 week journey will start then…
After we slept until around midday, we went out to check the Area
and get something to eat. We found a nice Restaurant with a Roof
terrace (to cross the highly frequented traffic road to it took us
20 Min.) where we had the chance to get orientated what kind of
fashion is up to date in a Muslim Country, as we were not sure how
much we had to cover our body, specially me, in a heat of about for
sure 40 degrees.
Alright then, long leggings and a longer shirt over it are fine for
women and is IN all over the world right now as it seems. Shoulders,
legs should be covered, no breast presentation….but it’s not
necessary to wear a head carve (thanks god I thought….but it’s still
the beginning…)
To add for information, in Amman you will find some women wearing
different outfits which even show the ankles (!) They belong to the
3% Christians here in the Capital.
Men are fine in shirt and long or knee long trousers.
The whole City, as we saw as best later in the afternoon from the
viewpoint up on the mountain the “Citadel Jebel al-Qala’a”, is built
in a creamy brownish sandy color with no high rise buildings really.
It remains a bit on Athens in Greece. The taxi driver we took from
this place than, offered us a reasonable price to travel to our
first destination in the East to visit some very old castles and we
agreed to head off next morning at 9 AM. Taxis are very cheap and
common to travel around with, if you don’t hire your own car which
many people do for about 30 - 40 Euro a day. There is not really a
working easy bus system or anything like this in Jordan.
Actually, I was still very tired and a nice Hotel with a Pool and
good food would have been an option to rest for a week or so…. (Just
kidding, I can’t stand “normal” hotel guests anyway but this was
somehow I felt like)
As we got started the following day, I had the feeling it is hotter
than on our arrival, but it might be I thought, because we were
heading out to the desert. It was not a nice sandy dunes desert, no,
a hot stony nothing desert where in the middle of nowhere the old
castle “Qasr Kharana” was the place to go….was alright o.k. very old
indeed.
In the Bedouin Tent in front of the entrance gate, we could sip some
traditional tea which belongs to Arab countries like the palm trees
to Thailand. I love hot Tea…specially when its already 50 degrees by
then…no I’m joking, I really love this tea drinking style in this
Countries and I missed directly Egypt because I remembered in this
very moment, my first real journey out of Europe in an age of 21
years, for two whole month with my sister Marianne (Marla) with one
pair of shoes, a day bag and nothing else…
After the tea and my dreams about old times, we went on to see
another old building. This time, some kind of first bath or “Hammam
As-Sarah” left from ancient times before Christ was born.
Unfortunately, except of some parts of very very old paintings
inside on the roof and the walls not much was left. The man sitting
at the entrance took his chance to act like a guide for this about
60 sqm bath to show us some special parts of the paintings with a
laser pointer where he expected afterwards his payment of course. He
was not really satisfied with the coins Wolf handed out to him…
After the third place “Amra”, we went on to Azraq Village, where was
less left of this black, old “Qasr Al-Azraq Castle”. Now, we were
not so sure anymore about our plans to go further East. The taxi
driver was then also working on us to change our plans and best
thing to do he meant, would be to go back to Amman after this day
and end up with him as our driver through the whole country.
Definitely, I was not willing to spend our money and our holiday in
company of this old man!
We decided then to stay in “Azraq”, 3 hr drive away from Amman and
this taxi driver to rest in a small Guesthouse with a Pool. We read
about this Accommodation in our Guidebook and also “Lonely Planet
Guide” was wondering, where they had all the water from because the
whole Area was bone dry. There used to be a nice Wetland Reserve
with Animals and Plants nearby, but mainly Amman was pumping the
water through pipelines into the Main city, all Animals disappeared
and this Country side just dried out, what a shame. But this place
to stay was interesting by itself because, quite a few Muslim people
came also to stay overnight or just to enjoy the pool, having a
splash in this unbearable heat or to sit (women) completely covered
in black under the umbrella to watch their man while they were
having fun. I went then in a long sacky t-shirt and long pens in the
pool as well and still felt almost naked …
The first major plan we actually had, was our adventure to keep
going very Far East with a 4 wheel drive. This turned out to be
impossible because first, no 4 wheel drive car around and second,
the way was more than 300 km long. Wolf insisted to go out in this
unfriendly desert, but I rather wanted to relax at least for one or
two days more next to the pool to get some rest and get sorted. The
room even had an Air condition. Unfortunately, this AC did whatever
it wanted and was heating up the room during my afternoon nap to 34
degrees. I woke up, headache, sweating, let’s say a bit in a bad
mood and Wolf knowing me very well realized, it’s time for him to
act. So after he made me some coffee, gave me some biscuits and I
had a full dressed swim in the nice cool pool once again, I started
to calm down. But even as much as we tried, the best result of the
AC was to bring it down to 29 degrees which went back up again
during the night to 36! We stayed two days.
As the East Adventure Trip was not going to happen, we decided to
start our journey now in a more “normal” way or let’s say the common
way which everybody is following or travelling through Jordan, who
explores longer the Country than only a couple of days to tick off
the main places like famous “Petra”.
Next destination for us from Azraq: Dead Sea, same Taxi Driver. We
called him to get us from Azraq because there was no other option
and of course he left us his card before he went back to Amman,
alone, just in case.
We visited on the way “Mount Nebo”, walked up this Mountain which is
said Moses went up to and died on a plan and/or prophecy of god.
After that we visited a lovely old Chapel in the small Town called
Madaba. Famous for its thousands of years old Mosaic inside this
Church. Finally, we arrived at the Dead Sea late in the afternoon,
uff.
But where shall we stay? Only 5* Hotels like Moevenpick etc. were
along the shore and no other, cheaper options. The Driver, driving
me mad by then with his old plan, going back to Amman and visit day
by day or just as we like with him, all places …etc. etc. was not
happy that we neither wanted to go back but insisted to find a
better and most important, an affordable place for us. (To make the
distance more understandable, you can drive down south directly from
Amman to the South Coast Red Sea, next to the Saudi Arabian Border
in about let’s say 6-7 hrs straight.)
But, we did find one (hehe) and he had to bring us there while he
was shouting about other motherfucker car drivers etc. Somehow, his
attitude went down. The kind of stone bungalow right up on the stony
beach of the Dead Sea was alright and we even got some discount
because the lock was not working. The aggressive salty air from the
sea is destroying everything metal in no time, luck for us in this
case. But still, the room with no shower and WC cost us like 60 Euro
incl. Breakfast. We slowly worried about our Budget and were glad to
have some groceries stored in our bag from the supermarket, which
would help us saving some money during the day.
Hurray, enjoy and relax was the second major plan once, which we
planned to follow eventually. We jumped now in the Dead Sea which
was very clear, inviting for snorkeling if we would not know any
better to float in at least 36 degrees… Does this bloody Country
have something cool at some place? To make it short….NO, not in this
time of the year.
(And even worse, Jordan had during our stay sometimes a max.
temperature of 53 degrees, Dead Sea even much more, around 60
degrees, being the hot spot in the Country. Not enough? No, Jordan
experienced for their first time this high temperatures ever.
Welcome to global warming.)
As we came out, we had a shower right on the beach which took us a
few minutes to go under (maybe 50 degrees or boiling?)
The shower in the Ablution Block was not any better and we never
figured out which tap was the hot and the cold one really. All this
was not too bad yet. The worst thing was the wind. I never
experienced such a strong hot wind, except from my hairdryer turned
on full power right in my face.
The next day sounded promising to escape a bit all those hot
conditions. Following a trail with Guides up the Mountains and then
through a canyon full of running cool water. Exciting!
We met 8.30 at the RSCN Station, an Organization which tries to
limit the mess with the water or better the dryness in this country
and the following problems of abandoned Animals etc.
We came like we always, the entire outdoor freaks as we are and were
again wondering, what the other tourists or Jordan’s were wearing
for this kind of trip. One girl even came in diving boots; the other
with their headscarf’s and long not stretchable jogging pens, some
in flip flops, not enough water, no head protection etc.
We started to walk up the stony mountains, the girl with the thin
neoprene boots was not long after walking on this rocky path like a
goat ha-ha, the headscarf’s almost had a heatstroke as well as the
no head protectors, the other were dehydrated but they did fight
their way up and down, with permanent breakdowns. We arrived almost
2 hrs later or so at the stream which made them scream for happiness.
They survived!
Then, shoe test: 3 hrs long hiking through the stony riverbed, more
or less strongly running water through the canyon, now wiped their
excitement of the refreshment quickly away. The main adventure on
this trip was “abseiling” down through a waterfall, I mean right
through and the waterfall was strong! Some of the headscarfs did
surprisingly well but one lost her head cover which made her never
coming out behind the waterfall, where we landed after about 20 m
down. Some got roped down from the guides like dead bodies banging
against the rocks but in the end, everybody was fine and enjoyed it
more or less. Some waterslides made by nature were fun and all in
all, it was one of our best treks we ever did! Can’t talk for the
others…
We came back on plan after 4 hrs. I was then absolutely looking
forward to have a nice sleep in our AC bungalow and finally have
some kind of holiday, which somehow did not really happen yet. All
places were interesting and we enjoyed the travelling so far but all
I wanted was to escape this all over the place heat just for a
couple of hours. I went in our hut, got ready for bed; fell asleep
to wake up not less than 15 Min. later because of a brownout. I did
not believe that we were supposed to be without electric for the
next 3 hours! The day once started so great but also very early,
with so much fun which was now immediately destroyed. Again, the
room became like an oven in no time. Outside the hot sea, the hot
showers, this unbearable hot wind…help! Once the electric came back,
about 3 hrs later like promised, or rather turned off and on, I was
not tired anymore, just tried to deal with the situation. This is
the difference between travelers or backpackers and hotel tourists
and just the way it is. No Management where you can run to and cry
his ears full or even ask for refund. Only, normally when we are
traveling we get this kind of happenings for a far lower price,
especially in Asia.
The next day we decided to give our self some treatment, recommended
by “Lonely Planet” in the Moevenpick Hotel about 15 km back the
coastline where we came from. For a “small” Fee outsiders can use
the Pool Facilities inside the hotel and enjoy the day. Now we had
“normal” tourists around us, well known …My Sandals which were
falling apart by then did not protect my feet anymore from this hot
sand on the private beach, where you really burn your feet in a
Minute (or not even). The hotel provided some Flip Flops for their
own guests and I spent the rest of the afternoon planning how I can
steal a pair for the way home.
One of their artificial beaches had a direct entrance into the Sea
and the Staff was very helpful and watered the way for me with a
water hose to avoid burning my feet too much. For the way out, I
figured out the shortest runway to one of the showers. All in all it
was fun but besides the Luxury those Hotels are providing, somehow
we hate the Style and the Atmosphere. Just imagine “Indiana Wolf
Jones” and “Jane from Tarzan” spending their time in one of this 5*
Places. We simply don’t fit in and were glad after this day to go
back. Asking ourselves once again who are the strange ones, we or
them? We went on the next day…climate situation still the same!
The next destination further down south, was called “Dana Nature
Reserve”. We could not believe that we found a cheap place, good
food and even a few degrees cooler. Instead of 45-60 degrees in the
shade we had now only 35-40 degrees hurray! We stayed in some kind
of Bedouin Resort called “Al Nawatef Camp”. The Rooms this time
where simple Goat Tents with broken windows, windy door and a
stunning View over the Dana Valley. The Ablution Block for the
Guests was clean, the shower even cold in early morning or late
evening and the beds were still strong enough not to break down with
my Wolfman’s 95 kilos. Even if his bed sounded like it might not
last for the next nights but in the end it did.
During the day it was too hot to stay in the tent or anywhere so we
climbed down the mountain in the Valley where they said we can find
a promising spring and caves. We found many Caves where the
“Nebateans” used to live about 2.500 years ago and Tombs but no
spring. After a couple of hours hiking through the Valley, some
lunch break during the hottest time of the day, we made our way back
up to the camp which I was almost unable anymore to make. As I had
no choice I did it then but slowly, very slowly with 100 breaks in
between and a bit moody by then. As we came back to the camp finally,
me almost crawling and unable to speak, they served us some … guess
what…nice hot tea. But once we were back, had tea while watching the
sunset over the Valley and a nice cold shower afterwards everything
was just great and I loved it all. Probably I’m just not fit enough
and need to do more exercising or get used to the climate a bit
better because when I look at my Wolf, he is happily walking up and
down all hills around while I need a break or a nap under the shade
of a tree….He is 50 years old this man and I’m always surprised how
he can do that honestly. Mr. Indiana Wolfgang Jones.
Following day, we planned another hike in a Valley nearby. But
Minutes before we left, we received very good news about our
business and I was enthusiastic and felt powerful as we started then.
The trail led along a small stream and we even could refill our
water on a well so this made us feeling so much better as walking
through the dryness. That it was and still is, hot like hell you
know by now and I don’t want to bore you with mentioning it all the
time my friends. We found after the stream a Gorge which we thought
might be similar to “Petra” which was then our next and anyway “THE
PLACE to go in Jordan”. We were the very only people on this day
which we like most, nothing better than being alone in the wild, our
favorite!
As nice and pleasant this “Al Nawatef Camp” Bedouin place was, but
it did not offer much more then hiking again, we decided to go on.
Everybody comes mainly to Jordan because of “Petra” which proudly
has about 1 Mio. Visitors a year (compared to Phuket, we got about
11 Mio. a year and the plan from the Thai Government is to increase
it to, believe it or not, 16 Mio. Tourists a year!!)
Arriving in Petra or better the Town to stay next to it “Wadi Musa”,
we were lucky with the room again, about 20 Euro or not more than
1.000 Baht incl. a nice Breakfast. A nice Breakfast here in Jordan
means: some kind of eggs, jam, cheese, tomatoes, cucumber and of
course sweet black tea and pita bread.
The next day and after the morning meal, we made our way to “Petra”
from “Wadi Musa” where now our Guesthouse was located approx. 3 km
away (you can’t stay or camp inside the ancient side); At the
entrance, we bought ourselves a 3 day Ticket and after 2 days of
hiking up and down the mountains in and around Petra I went on
strike while my Wolf kept on going and just could not get enough of
this huge Area. You must learn, “Petra” is much more then only the
image almost everybody knows, it has tombs, a monastery up on the
hill (3 hrs walk up) so much more to see which is left from a time
when rivers were running through and made this one of the most
important Metropolis for ancient trade routes about 2.500 to 2.000
years ago for a length of around 500 years until the Romans annexed
it to integrate it in their empire. The way which leads you to the
famous Image of “Petra” which is called “Treasury” you must follow a
George for about 3 km long, very impressive. The whole Area with all
the old tombs and remnants from glorious times gives and still has,
such a special atmosphere that I could sit at some places and just
soak it all in for hours.
Dreaming and fantasizing how it must have been, riding a camel for
weeks along traditional trade routes to finally come to this green
heaven of beautiful “Petra” with all the markets, shops and oriental
colorful life going on. So many images are carved in the mountains
made me wonder why everybody just knows about one picture at all.
Of course, tourists who are too lazy or unable to manage this short
even way can go on a horse, a donkey or a camel. The elephant sized
tourists mainly and rather went on a Camel because they can take the
biggest weights ha-ha…my god what you see there is just incredible.
It’s a shame for all Westerners, what this people present or make
out of themselves. To get a nice suntan and ignoring the culture,
they come in their shortest outfits to end up again with almost a
heatstroke and red like a lobster. The best are the big fat red
Lobster and I think Wolf should make a film of those ignorant
Tourists too. The worst like always are the French, but the Italians
try to top them whenever they can or at least with being louder than
them. The most well dressed are the Asians and also pleasant in
their behavior. Sorry, but this is the truth and I must say it!
Spanish travelers are very rude and one I was watching shouted even
‘fuck you’ to the Vendor because he sold his water more expensive
than others. Would he say this to a Supermarket Sales Person at home
in Spain when the price is higher than in another Store?
I guess not, do you?
We did not really meet many English or Germans during our Trip.
The best what we did was on our third day to go on a donkey ride
from “Petra” main Area to “little Petra”. It is incredible how the
donkeys can climb through the steep mountains, the views are
impressive from the top and as we were with Bedouins, of course we
had a tea break on the way. We loved it and it was the highlight of
the whole Petra Trip. “Little Petra” was interesting and compared, a
small but beautiful, pleasant and well kept place which was easily
crossed in an hour. The donkey ride itself took us about 2 hours and
we can highly recommend it for people until 100 kg approx. and still
in control of their body.
The donkey Bedouin guy invited us for more tea in his house, but we
were satisfied with the day as it was and wanted to get some dinner
and a shower after the ride. For information: Bedouins belong
absolutely to Arab Countries and are fully accepted in their own
lifestyle and can live wherever they want on the Countryside with
their goat and/or sheep herds. They are free people and some make
their income to offer camel or donkey rides around famous sites.
They are different, very friendly people, drinking tea all the time
which they call “Bedouin Whiskey” and make their living in a
surrounding which can make us westerners only wondering about. They
will never sell their freedom for luxury or any lifestyle Cities
provide tough, most of them have a Car.
Around “Petra”, many of them used to live also in this Caves you can
find all around, instead of their Goat Tents. To protect this world
heritage side and one of the 7 World wonders, they had to leave and
were moved by the Government to a built up Village for them. Again,
if they did not want to move in concrete houses and make money
through the Tourists, they were free to go wherever they wanted to
in this deserted, dry, amazing Country.
Although, the Country has 4 Seasons (Thailand has only 3) and the
best time is spring. Then everything is green and full of Flowers.
The black Lily is their specific Jordanian Flower. They even have
snow in wintertime which is hard to believe when you come like us,
in the middle of the summer in this extreme heat (they hopefully
have only this year and is not increasing now every year). Who knows,
they definitely must worry about their water supply for not only
this Country in the future.
As “Petra” was always a dream destination for me since I first saw
and heard about it, it was pretty hard to leave. I could have gone
there every day just to sit there and watch it with all the camels,
donkeys, tourists and small shops around it. It is a very special
place indeed and we are very happy that we were able to visit it.
Thanks God!
But everything has an end and so we were heading to our next
destination “Wadi Rum”. A real red and yellow sandy desert as our
guide book promised with lots of opportunities like climbing, camel
trip, desert camping, wilderness pure. Hurray!
We asked the Manager of our guesthouse in “Petra/Wadi Musa” if he
could recommend us a nice Bedouin camp inside the desert from where
it might be also possible to go on a day ride with a camel or even
according to my plan, make the last distance down south even with
it. After he made a few phone calls and gave us his offer it
appeared a bit expensive to us and we decided to jump in the taxi
and take whatever comes by chances. We still had the addresses from
the guidebook about places to stay inside the desert which is like a
National park with entrance fee etc. and did not worry we will find
our way…
Naja, what do I always say to our Customer? You get what you pay for…
But Jordan for us was an expensive place and so we just had to save
if possible and this seemed the time to do so.
In the end we did, but let me tell the story how…
As we were on our Way from “Petra” to “Wadi Rum” with another taxi
driver called “Jamel”, we told him about our plans to actually ride
by Camel to the South Coast “Aquaba” 15 km away from the Saudi
Arabian Boarder and on the Red Sea.
After a 3-4 hrs drive, we inspected the first camp still outside
“Wadi Rum” which looked promising and I could not resist the price
and cool real shady relaxing restaurant tent. But Wolf was shocked
about the sleeping tents build up and located like on a car park. No
tree no nothing but hot and dry and the tents were next to each
other. His point, that it is anyway not even inside the Desert made
me to agree that we rather go on.
In the meanwhile, the taxi driver still “waiting” outside; because
he could not start his engine anymore, no gasoline… said he knows “a
friend” where he can bring us to, cheap and perfect he promised.
But first, we had to push his gasoline empty Car and make it running
again somehow. By the way, 50 degrees desert heat, right in the
middle of the sun and nothing but Ramadan. Yes, I forgot to mention
that this Country also had Ramadan since the “Blackmoon” which was
on the 10th of August. That means, this poor guy did not drink or
eat anything since sunrise at 5 AM, was driving us 3 hrs to come
here and now had to push the Car together with us. O.k. that it was
his fault not to fill up the Car did not make things better and
would have been a typical German argument.
But as we are not typical Germans, we pushed and prayed for the Car
and him and really, it started! It even made it the next 5 km to the
next gasoline station.
Alright then here we go, inside the desert, not paying the entrance
fee somehow, and meeting his friend. A smart, introverted, white
typical long shirt dressed Bedouin. He was not overfriendly but
well, we agreed to stay at his Bedouin camp far inside the desert
for a much lower price than others had to offer.
As he brought us there in his 4 Wheeler, far away from any tourist,
in the middle of the desert Wolf was excited as we arrived. The
desert there was gorgeous but what’s wrong with my Wolf? As he said
while entering the Camp side “and so clean” I just kicked the first
can away. The tents were mostly blown half away, the toilet had no
running water “yet” (in fact it never had), the kitchen was totally
dirty and as the Bedouin said we are so welcome and this home would
be now our home I was thinking this must be a joke or I’m surely
dreaming.
But Wolf was so happy that I thought I might need glasses or
somehow, we do not see the same.
No problem then, we can sleep under the stars, found some o.k. not
too dirty mattresses where I built the beds for the night while Wolf
was enjoying and filming the amazing scenery the dessert offered to
us (not the Camp!)
The Bedouin guy promised to come back later at some time with a pack
of drinking water and dinner.
We watched the sunset….nothing happened.
We sat in the dark…nobody came.
Did he forget about us? Can’t be but it was hours later and we had
no water since.
The only reason can be the Ramadan. They wait for the sunset;
sitting in front of their food staring at the sunset and/or their
watch to start eating at the exact second Allah allows them or the
Koran.
It shall not be odd for Westerners. We are not in the position to
criticize other behavior or cultures. Different Countries are not
always easy to deal with but this also makes traveling so
interesting. How boring would it be if we would be all the same?
On the other hand, we would understand each other and life could be
easier…and we would have something to drink and not to worry about
if they forgot about us…
Yes. A Car came. Only 5 hrs later after we arrived in this lovely
Camp. Mr. Bedouin sent his son to bring us the promised supplies. We
were happy about the Water and the food was homemade and good. The
son could speak English and we had some kind of conversation which
then was a bit boring and Wolf and me were rather talking, joking
and kidding about this day. Also, we originally had planned to stay
3 nights in the Camp but now wanted to leave the next morning. The
last thing I could make this 17 year old son to do for us was tea
and further, we both tried at least to make him understand that, we
want somebody to pick us up next morning at 9 AM, bring us to the
Camels and start the trip down south to “Aquaba”.
The son was supposed to stay with us the whole night he said first.
But then suddenly his battery went flat of his phone and he had to
go back to his mom or who ever.
All a bit confusing.
The son turned the water tank on, so we could have a shower. No
wonder he left quickly…
The water was just enough for Wolf to shower and finish. No shower
for me. What’s next?
As we were lying on our mattresses, watching the amazing stars I was
a bit worried about it all. We could not lock our things in anywhere
because the lock on the kitchen door was broken; then they have left
us on our own; in the middle of the dessert in a camp which looked
more like a ruin; nobody around and strangest thing of all was that
everybody who is entering the Dessert need to be registered and we
weren’t. So in fact, nobody even knew we were here, except this guy
and his family. At least they are not planning to kill us because
they have left some breakfast we were joking but in the end, we did
not really trust this strange situation. Did not people and family
warn me to go to Jordan because somebody was recently kidnapped?
Wonderful. We woke up every hour (or 10 Min.)? checking if somebody
might be around trying to rob us or anything. Wolf, always cool and
really good in playing things down would have ignored it all, if I
just would not have mentioned that we are not registered…so we
shared a sleepless night and every time I fell asleep I had the
worst dreams. At least I got robbed 3 times, killed twice somebody
came who tried to harm us etc… Did not know what was worse to sleep
or not to sleep.
The next morning, as we had NO shower but could brush our teeth with
the drinking water I prepared the breakfast and tea.
We waited…after 9 o’clock the time was suddenly stretching like
chewing gum…by 10.30 we had 2 bottles water left.
What exactly was the misunderstanding? Did they ignore that we told
the son we want to leave?
Hurray for us, the father came and not hurray for him, I was by then
absolutely disappointed. I had my self rolled cigarette hanging out
of the winkle of my mouth, ignoring him and whatever he must think
about this bad white woman behavior and just wanted to leave asap.
Let’s Wolf deal with him, from man to man in a man ruled Country
anyway, grrrr.
Besides, Wolf and I agreed already before how much we will pay and
what we will say to avoid “ME”.
The Bedouin, rather avoided to confrontate or ask me with anything,
brought us back to his house to get the Camels for us. I refused to
enter his house, drink his tea or whatever he offered me. He tried
to be nice, I tried to be invisible. His ugly wife came out to show
me her new made Baby nr. 6 …my god, please let us leave this place.
Not too fast, we are not in Europe are we? First we had to go in the
supermarket with his useless son from last night who turned out did
not deliver the message. The supermarkets in this Country do not
offer much but o.k. we found some Pita Bread, Cheese, baked Beans,
Tuna, Corned Beef, Cucumber and Paprika. We will be only through the
Dessert for the next 2-3 Days. Also we took 12 Bottles Water/24
liters. In total you must count min. 5-6 liters a day drinking water
p.p. + 4 Bottles Spare.
Then, the guide came. The best as Mr. Bedouin said many times. Also,
this man was not too friendly but I thought as he is a real Bedouin,
I surely can warm him up soon once we are out of this place. His
Camel was wearing a mouth basket/protection. Do Camels bite?
At the end, the unavoidable moment came where we had to pay for our
stay in his “camp”. Wolf told him perfectly nice what this is about
and how much we are willing to pay. As they were then squeezing the
price up and down, (can I ever shut up?) he agreed on the final
price I said then. Fine. Sorted. Big save. You get what you pay for,
always remember.
And now we had just agreed on a cheap Camel Trip…???
We climbed on the loaded Camels. Our backpacks took a while to be
fixed but in the end everything was stored in the huge traditional
side bags except our day bags. Those ones became really
uncomfortable within the next 10 Min. and made us re-organizing them
for the next 3 hrs…We were too shy to say something to the Guide as
stupid Tourists as we probably were or he must have thought.
Otherwise, we were doing pretty well, once we got used to the height
and the Camel movement.
We got started. Right through the beautiful Desert, great. We loved
it and had much fun. The Bedouin glancing back to us regularly
surely thought we are a bit out of mind but, we enjoyed it and he
did not talk much to us yet anyway, so who cares. Wolf was filming
and I was becoming an acrobat to reach the water in the deep bag.
Every time the Guide looked back we quickly freezed, like kids in
school and totally childish giggling right after, as soon as he
turned back front.
Also the Bedouin, he was very very old was expressing it’s too hot
to keep going and after another hour or so we found a nice shady
place under a big Rock formation. We had to take all weight and bags
off the Camels to release them for a while and had our picnic, tea
what he cooked for us and I started to talk with him which was fun.
He tried not to like tourists as it seemed to me but does he know
us? I believe I’m very easy in talking to people and why should he
not like us? We are nice ones, don’t complain, and can deal with the
nature and the wild so what? Let’s have some fun old men I thought
and had an afternoon nap on his camel blanket on the rocks.
I woke up, he smiled, Wolf smiled….I saw the Photo Wolf made of me
and did not smile but doesn’t matter, the Bedouin started losing his
stiffness a little bit which was good.
We had some more tea “Chai” repacked our Camels which were moaning
about it and 3 o’clock we went on to continue.
2 hrs. later I was already one with my Camel and felt very
comfortable riding it.
We found our place for the night in the open Dessert at around 6 pm.
This time we took all stuff off the Camels and he let them walk
around freely. He also gave them some water and food. But Camels can
go through the Dessert even 2 weeks long without anything? I saw,
there is much to learn about Camels and tried to get more
information out of him. Not easy because he could not speak English
well but I’m used to pantomime conversation and I found out
interesting things. Also, that they snap at you and would bite like
a dog if you feed them for example (which I did…)
Nothing is better than sleeping under the Stars. Especially in
Arabic Desserts you have the clearest vision of the Milky Way and
more stars then you can imagine. I was watching the universe and
slowly started to dream off as I had the worst smell in my nose
ever. It came right from the camel mouth and was so disgusting that
I did not know where to turn around too. Because soon Wolf, all out
of sudden was breathing right in my ear as he would suffer from
Asthma. What the hell is wrong on this journey, why I can’t get a
proper rest now once it is not too hot I was asking myself and
wondering what I could do about? To stay away from the camels biting
and now stinking mouth was surely the best plan. So I tried first of
all to quiet Wolf up. This did not work until I put a bit of monkey
balm under his nose which might have burned him a little but gave
him a free working nose – for the next 2 hrs. I kept doing this then
for the rest of the night together with the bad mouth smell blown in
my direction from this one’s so lovely camels, which I thought about
beating up now, without waking the beguine man up.
Never mind, also this night found an end at 5.30 AM and we had a
great sunrise, tea, bread, cheese and vegetables we had bought for
it and tasted lovely in this free Environment. After I helped as
good as I can the beguine guy re-packing the camels, I confess, I’m
still a camel girl beginner as he was exhaling a bit too loudly, I
just laughed and enjoyed working on his camels and bags and straps.
He then gave me even his flip flops and walked barefoot for at least
half an hour to smooth the camels joins and body’s before we put our
own weight on them too. If this was not a sign that he started to
like us? This second day it took us longer to find the right sitting
position. Wolf actually never did and still has a mark on his lower
back where the settle tortured him.
Late in the afternoon we arrived at our destination, or better 30 km
still away from it. The camels could not go along the main road and
we had to find another transport to reach the guesthouse near the
beach. First we had a quick tea and some left bread and stuff and
then sadly had to say good bye to “Ali” the very old, nice and truly
best beguine guide from “Wadi Rum”.
The driver from the construction site nearby, who was willing to
take us to “Aquabar” was a stress person. First he rushed us in his
car, drove like hell to stand still after not even 10 Min. This
idiot had no gasoline anymore, again, and now stopped every car
passing by to ask for gasoline. I still could see “Ali” and the
Camels under the shady tree while we were once again baking in the
sun and hoping for quick help. This came not long after in form of a
jerry can from a car, which was having obviously too much gasoline
and we could go on. Actually, we had agreed on a price of 10 Jedi
(Jordan Dollar) and as we arrived first in “Aquabar City” but kept
telling him to go on he was moaning loudly in Arabic, probably about
the low fare with a filling he not even had paid for. We already
agreed to pay him at least 15 Jedi but did not say a word to him.
Let him continue and learn out of it we thought. The Arabic’s would
do better to learn a bit of the Asian calmness because quickly they
argue loudly and being really hot tempered.
The place we arrived, 15 km further of the City, and another 15 km
to the Saudi Arabian boarder did not offer much but was for us the
perfect place to find and be after all this travelling. We had a
cheap but nice stone hut, with a tiny and clean bathroom inside, a
working air con and a pool in front of it. The breakfast was common
and included and we quickly made friends with the staff and diving
school there. The Manager and Instructor begged us to work for him
and offered us free accommodation and discounts on food and drinks
but we really needed to rest as we were also looking forward to a
busy season by ourselves. The food was good, the wind hot as usual,
the ocean cool with 25 degrees and pleasant for snorkeling and
little diving. We finally were sure we found some rest after the
first night sleep and next morning after breakfast, relaxed in and
near the pool until an invasion of loud Italians popped in to occupy
“our” pool. Not enough again of course like always, also the day of
our “retreat” the accommodation owner had some builders with an
electrical sow cutting steel 3 days long constantly for a 20 m high
ladder construction to be fixed on the outside wall of the house.
Why now? Why us? Why the f..?
We ignored it as good as we could, made bombs in the pool to be
annoying to this overloud Italians. Wolf even swam his rows,
crossing the entire pool which made everybody squeezing themselves
to the sides of it. I found that very funny! Than we played, trying
pushing each other under the water and handstand to jump again in
the pool after a while. After hours finally the soaking Italians
left to go on with their rental camper vans but not before they all
came back to empty their shit containers in the public toilette next
to the pool. No comment!
We stayed there for a couple of days. It took us already 2 days
until we were recovered and able to manage on the third day the 70 m
walk down to the beach and the ocean which we could see from the
Restaurant terrace, lovely!
We really liked and enjoyed this place and the people there and had
to leave sooner as we would have loved to. Still, there were a few
more sights we had to see up north of Jordan which could not be
missed.
As we planned our next and final route we calculated, it would be
better to drive by our self with a rental car. In this way we did
not have to deal with different drivers anymore, could easier go
around where ever we wanted and anyway planned to stay in each place
only for a day and a night. Also, we could then drive directly to
the Airport by ourselves and drop of the Car there, excellent.
After once again we said good bye to this lovely place and people,
we headed up north to stay in “Madaba” unplanned. We could not make
more of our way because it took us longer as we thought and the
roads and traffic around Amman are really confusing. The small Town
of “Madaba” is about 26 km before Amman and we decided rather to
drive on the following morning. As it was still Ramadan, we hardly
found something to eat before 9 PM. Everybody is going home first
for Dinner and then is opening the Restaurant or Shop. It’s the
second time for me to visit an Arabic Country and the second time
that is Ramadan there…very funny. As I said this to my Mom in
Germany, that I hope it’s not Ramadan again, I did not really
believe it would be. But as my life is always a bit odd, I’m
actually not really surprised by it.
The main place to visit up north is called “Jerash”. An old roman
built Arena and Palaces which are still in progress of
archaeological discovering, well preserved and re-built. In the
Arena inside the sight there, they had a show with Gladiators where
they demonstrated ancient fight techniques and horse rides. We were
wandering around for hours and hours and I felt I slowly have seen
enough of ruins, old desert castles, Roman Empire reliques and what
is left from the time around Christ birth. This means not that I or
we did not enjoy everything to the last little bit but the time has
arrived, where we both started to be tired and exhausted of the
heat, the dryness, the sand and the food. It is like you see temples
and temples all around Asia and at some point you feel some kind of
“enough”. We had the pleasure to enjoy really exceptional lovely
food the last two evenings, even the owner tried to rip us off like
stupid but then, it’s nice to be in a Country for a longer while.
Now, at the end of our 4 weeks we spent here, we knew the prices,
some of the language, behavior, styles and common daily happenings
let’s say which on the other hand makes us missing this
extraordinary Country at the same time as being fed up with it in a
positive way. We saw Petra and more and really, it’s breathtaking
awesome!!
We will never forget this journey through time and ancient and keep
all the warm wishes and experiences in our heart until we see us
again – hopefully not in Ramadan time and say so long “Mafish
mushgella” Salem aleikum – aleikum marsalam
Allah akbar, hamdullilah, Inshalla, Marshallam ! Shuggran !
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